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Tip 045 min

SEALING IN THE BATHROOM

Bathrooms and kitchens are among the hardest places for any joint. Here the sealant is permanently exposed to water, humidity, temperature change, soaps, cleaners and soiling.

WATER FINDS EVEN THE SMALLEST MISTAKE

A good joint is therefore not just a straight line of silicone. It needs sound adhesion, the right shape and the right material.

Correctly applied sanitary silicone protects the connections around baths, showers, sinks and worktops from water ingress and stays elastic as the different materials move.

HOW IT IS DONE
  1. USE A SANITARY SILICONE

    In a bathroom, shower or around a kitchen sink use a silicone intended for sanitary and damp rooms. Sanitary silicones are formulated for high-humidity environments and normally contain protection against mould growth.

    Typical applications are:

    • bath to tiles
    • around a shower tray
    • internal corners of the tiling
    • around sinks and basins
    • between worktop and splashback
    • on certain sanitaryware
    • other connections regularly exposed to water
    ImportantNot every silicone is a sanitary silicone. Universal silicone suits many construction applications, but for a permanently damp environment choose a product explicitly intended for sanitary rooms.
  2. REMOVE THE OLD SILICONE COMPLETELY

    Do not apply new silicone over the old one, especially if the old joint is:

    • blackened
    • cracked
    • debonded
    • covered in mould
    • no longer elastic

    Cut the old silicone out with a knife or a dedicated tool and remove the residues from both faces. The new silicone must bond to the clean substrate, not to remains of the old sealant.

    If there is mouldBlackened silicone must not simply be covered over. After removing it, check the substrate underneath. Any traces of mould have to be cleaned and treated with a suitable product, then rinsed if the product requires it, and left to dry completely.
  3. CLEAN AND DEGREASE

    The surfaces must beclean · dry · sound · free of dust and grease

    Pay particular attention to residues of:

    • soap
    • shampoo
    • cleaning agents
    • grease
    • limescale
    • old silicone

    They can be almost invisible on the tiles and still reduce adhesion significantly.

    On suitable non-porous surfaces use a degreaser recommended by the manufacturer or a suitable alcohol-based cleaner.

    CautionDo not use any random solvent. Some solvents damage acrylic baths, plastics, painted surfaces and decorative finishes. After cleaning, the agent must evaporate completely before the silicone is applied.
  4. LET THE JOINT DRY COMPLETELY

    This matters most when refurbishing an old bathroom. Once you remove the silicone around a bath or shower, trapped moisture may sit behind it.

    Do not close a wet joint with fresh silicone. Let the area dry out fully. If needed, leave the shower or bath unused long enough before the work so no residual water remains in the joint zone.

    WhySilicone cures with the help of airborne moisture, but that does not mean it may be applied to a wet surface. A water film between silicone and substrate prevents reliable adhesion.
  5. LOAD AN ACRYLIC BATH BEFORE SEALING

    Acrylic and some plastic baths shift slightly when filled with water and when someone steps in. If you seal an empty bath and then load it, the gap between bath and wall can widen and stretch the finished joint on first use.

    For an acrylic or plastic bath, where both the bath and sealant manufacturers allow it: fill the bath about half with water before sealing and keep it loaded for the time stated in the sealant instructions. The joint then forms closer to its real working position.

    For heavy steel, cast iron or otherwise rigidly fixed sanitaryware the rule does not apply in the same way.

  6. FORM THE JOINT CORRECTLY

    A huge amount of silicone is not the point. What matters is continuous contact with both faces along the whole length of the joint.

    Before applicationMask both sides with paper tape. Cut the nozzle at roughly 45° to the required joint width. Apply with a steady movement and enough material so the joint fills without voids.
    After applicationTool the silicone before a surface skin starts to form. Tooling has to press the material firmly against both faces. Remove the masking tape while the silicone is still fresh.
  7. DO NOT RUSH THE FIRST WATER CONTACT

    Silicone can feel dry on the outside fairly quickly, which does not mean it is cured through. Curing progresses from the surface inwards.

    For sanitary silicones a typical rate is around 2–3 mm per 24 hours at about 23 °C and 50% relative humidity, but it varies with product, temperature, humidity and joint size.

    When can the shower be usedDo not guess. Follow the time to water contact stated in the data sheet of the specific STRUKTORR product. Skin formation, working time, permissible water contact and full cure are different things.
  8. DO NOT FORGET THE CORNERS

    One rule applies to tiling: wherever two planes can move relative to each other, an elastic joint is required. Typical places are:

    • wall to wall
    • wall to floor
    • tiles to bath
    • tiles to shower tray
    • worktop to wall

    Rigid cementitious grout struggles to absorb movement between these elements and can crack. Such connections are therefore normally made with a suitable elastic sanitary sealant.

5 COMMON MISTAKES
  • NEW SILICONE OVER OLD
    The new material can look fine while the base of the joint stays compromised. Fix: remove the old silicone completely.
  • SEALING OVER A WET SUBSTRATE
    Water between silicone and surface degrades adhesion. Fix: let the substrate dry out fully.
  • ORDINARY SILICONE IN A PERMANENTLY DAMP AREA
    The product may lack the required mould resistance. Fix: use a sanitary silicone intended for bathrooms and kitchens.
  • SHOWERING RIGHT AFTER SEALING
    A dry surface does not mean a cured joint. Fix: observe the time before water contact given in the data sheet.
  • JUST SILICONE OVER THE MOULD
    Black spots are not only a cosmetic problem. Fix: remove the old material, clean the substrate, deal with the source of the moisture and only then form the new joint.

SILICONE IS NOT A WATERPROOFING LAYER

Sanitary silicone seals the connection between two elements. It must not be the only protection against water in a shower area.

Protection is a systemsubstrate → waterproofing → adhesive → tiles → grout → elastic joints

If the waterproofing behind the tiles is missing or compromised, new silicone along the edge will not solve the problem.

HOW TO MAKE THE JOINT LAST

Even a sanitary silicone cannot compensate for permanently poor ventilation and standing water. After using the bathroom:

  • ventilate the room
  • let wet areas dry out
  • do not leave water standing on the joints
  • clean regularly
  • avoid aggressive scrubbing with sharp or strongly abrasive products
NoteMould resistant does not mean mould can never appear. With constant humidity and a build-up of soap and organic residues, mould can grow on the soiling on the surface of practically any joint.
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